Bathroom curtain

I finally finished a project I have been wanting to do for about a year now. In my master bathroom, I had a store bought, plain white, Roman shade. It did its job, but I really did not like it for a multitude of reasons. I wanted to make a curtain for the window instead. Since last year I bought a fancy new sewing machine that does embroidery, I decided to use that to make a simple curtain into something not so simple.

The curtain is made of white denim. I choose this material because it lets in light while giving me privacy. I sewed a simple rectangle a bit bigger than the window. I then sewed simple tabs to hang it from a very simple rod I bought at IKEA. I had to use really simple finals as there is not a lot of room in between the window and the shower on the left and door to the water closet on the right. Then to make the curtain fancier, I bought a collection of machine embroidery floral border patterns. I sewed several corner and border patterns around the curtain’s perimeter. Then all I had to do was hang the curtain. I really like how the curtain looks. It is perfect for my bathroom.

New bathroom curtain

Close up of border embroidery

Close up of corner embroidery

Close up of border embroidery

Close up of border embroidery

Close up of border embroidery

How to live with cats: Garden windows

I have a garden window in my kitchen that I like very much. My plants that live in the garden window like it very much also. My cats also like it because they love to destroy my plants and can access the plants that live in the garden window. In general, the cats will not go after the plants when I am around, and in fact, normally they wait until it is nighttime, and I am asleep before really going after them. I want to keep at least some of the plants in the garden window, so I decided to make a window covering whose main purpose is simply to keep the cats out of the window at night or when I am away.

Garden window in my kitchen with my plants

I started with plain, white, cheap muslin. I didn’t want to spend a lot of money. Also, I wanted a light, thin fabric that would let the light in through through the window. I am not concerned about privacy in my kitchen. I found some pretty blue fabric on sale as a remnant at the fabric store, so I decided to make the shade a tiny bit fancy. I sewed wide stripe of the blue fabric to the bottom of the muslin. The width and length was measured for the final product to just fit inside the window. Disclaimer: I am a terrible, unskilled seamstress.

Fabric cut and blue stripe sewed to bottom of white muslin

I then sewed wide hems on the edges. The top hem was large enough to insert the curtain rod. The side and bottom hems were large enough to form pockets into which a wooden dowel could be inserted. The bottom dowel would run the width of the shade. Both sides would have 15 inch long dowels at the bottom. The point of the dowels is so that the cats could not just walk past the shade like a hanging curtain. Something stiff was needed, so they could not push it aside. The dowels will ensure the shade hangs straight and stiff and stays just inside the window, so the cats cannot get in between the shade and window frame.

Side hem sewed with wide pocket for dowel

All hems sewed with wide pockets on side and bottom for dowels

Up close view hems and pockets for dowels

Inserting dowel into bottom pocket

I then sewed loops of yarn on both sides of the shade, so that the shade could be held into place in the window with cup hooks. I had to adjust the size of the loops a few times, so that they were not too big and thus easily come off the hooks.

Yarn loop sewn onto bottom

The hung shade with dowels lowered and loops attached to hooks just inside the window frame as designed.

Shade closed over garden window

After hanging the shade, the cats quickly showed that they could remove the yarn loops from hooks. I tried having the hooks open in, out, and up, including some hooks opening in and some opening out, but the cats still could still remove the loop. Luckily, I found that the hooks are magnetic, and I had a bunch of magnetic disks. I am now able to keep the loops on the hooks with a magnet behind the hook. Thus far, this is defeating the cats.

Cup hooks inserted into window surround to hook loops with magnetic disks to keep loops on hooks

Loop on hook covered with magnetic disk. The large hanging loop attaches to a button to hold shade open.

I sewed a long piece of yarn with a loop at the end halfway up the side. Right above the yarn piece, I sewed a large button. The shade can then be held open in the window by looping the yarn around the shade and putting its loop around the button.

Shade held open with large loop of yard around a button

Close up of yarn looped around button on shade

It took a couple of tweaks with the loops and hooks, but thus far this set up is working. It has worked for about two weeks now, so I am cautiously optimistic this will prevent the cats from killing my plants when the shade is down.

Half Bathroom Renovation Finished

I have finished renovating the half bathroom! It is pretty much the last room in the house that needed renovation. [I say pretty much because I still have a few projects I want to do in the laundry area and storage room.] The plumber installed a new toilet and also the vanity. I bought a vanity that came with a white glass countertop, a white ceramic vessel sink, and a matching mirror. All it needed was the faucet. I installed a new three-bulb vanity light and also replaced the outlet and wall switches for new white ones. I also installed two glass shelves above the toilet. Finally I replaced the door hinges and door knob with hinges and a lever that match the rest of the house.

Full view of half bathroom

Full view of half bathroom

New toilet

New toilet

New vanity and matching mirror

New vanity and matching mirror

New vanity with vessel sink

New vanity with vessel sink

New glass shelves, mirror, and vanity light

New glass shelves, mirror, and vanity light

Bad Restroom Design Example

Some time ago, I wrote about female public restroom design basics. I am so tired of walking into badly designed female restrooms, and I wanted to give a primer to what women in need in a public restroom. We don’t need fancy. We need functional. Based on the comments to my post and also one of the most hilarious Twitter discussions I have ever had, men’s restrooms are badly designed also.

Last month one day, I was working in an office building that was not the one in which I normally work. It was an older building. I won’t say which office building it was, but it was in Washington, D.C. It was the perfect example of bad public restroom design. It was the perfect example of not updating elements that could be easily updated. Thus, of course, I had to take photos and share with everyone why it is a perfect example of bad restroom design.

Toilet stall so short, one must climb on the the toilet to close the door

Toilet stall so short, one must climb on the the toilet to close the door

First, it had toilet stalls so short, a woman has to either stand on the toilet or squeezed in between the toilet and the stall wall to close the door. I still don’t understand how the original designers just can’t understand door swing distance and the area of a human footprint needed to be in stall length calculations.

The sinks: 3 sinks with separate hot and cold water faucets and 2 working soap dispensers at the ends

The sinks: 3 sinks with separate hot and cold water faucets and 2 working soap dispensers at the ends

Then it had three sinks with only two soap dispensers, both of which were on the far ends of the sink areas. Thus, a person who uses the middle sink needs to either go to the end or reach across another sink to get soap. In defense of the original design, each sink did originally have a soap dispenser above each, but those are now non-functional. Instead of replacing the non-functional soap dispensers, they just put new ones at the end. It should be noted that by either changing the mirror or finding a smaller soap dispenser, the middle sink could have its own soap dispenser. Thus, the renovators of this bathroom do not get an excuse for the soap dispenser stupidness.

Next, also shown in the above photo, there are separate cold and hot water faucets. I am not sure if separate faucets originated before mixing valves were created, but that is the only reason I can think for their existence. However mixing valves exist now, and thus there is no point to the continued existence of separate hot and cold water faucets in a public restroom sink where a person is never going to be filling the sink with water to then wash their hands in the water filled sink. While it would obviously require taking out the sink and faucets, to change the plumbing to include a mixing valve, it could be done. Depending on the piping, it is possible it would require taking out some tile to change the plumbing, but it could be done, and it is not a massive renovation, and it would make the sinks so much more functional.

The inexplicable couch

The inexplicable couch

Finally, the restroom had a couch. Old buildings always seem to have couches in the female restrooms. Because women often get the vapors and need a lie down while we clutch our pearls until some savior arrives with smelling salts. Or something like that. Could you lie down on most of these couches? No, they are generally love seats. Would I lie down on any of these couches? No, I would never even touch most of these couches. But it fills the space, which seems to be only point of these couches.

Warning: Engineer Renovating Her Home

Sometimes I think I should come with a warning label: “Warning: Micromanaging, long-term planning, detail obsessed, anal retentive, constantly questioning engineer.” At the very least, when it comes to home maintenance and renovation, I should warn people of that. In truth, I think some of my personality traits that can probably be annoying at times, also make me a good engineer. Engineers have to think both short and long term. We have to look at both the big picture and all the tiny details. Sometimes, in my personal life, I am just not sure people are prepared to deal with those traits. I am not actually saying I would change myself if I could; I’m just saying sometimes people are unprepared to deal with someone like me.

I am currently planning for Phase 3 Home Renovation. I actually started planning for it during Phase 2. I changed the layout of the second floor of my house during Phase 2, and part of those changes were to prepare for Phase 3. One of my overall goals with my home renovation was to create a nice master bedroom closet and bathroom with a tub. The original closet was two reach-in closets that barely had enough space for two people, and the original master bathroom was tiny. It had two sinks on a small counter space, a small shower only stall, barely any storage space, and a toilet. I really wanted a nice whirlpool tub and more space. The master bedroom is next to the living room, where I had wanted to open the space up with the dining room and kitchen. Therefore, while planning for Phase 2 where I renovated the living room, dining room, kitchen, and family room, I drew, redrew, and kept redrawing the configuration of the second floor until I could have an open layout with the common rooms and also a nice master closet and bathroom that I wanted. In the final plan, I stole a six foot wide space the length of the living room from the living room and used that space to form a new master closet and a new water closet (for the toilet) that will connect to the new master bathroom. That new space was created during Phase 2. I also moved the doorway to the old master closet and bathroom to prepare for Phase 3. The door needed to be moved to fit the new bathroom configuration. I moved the doorway during Phase 2 because Phase 2 was when I was having all structural work done, and the doorway is in a structural wall. I created a 3 ft by 6 ft dead space behind the new master closet, between my master bathroom and living room that will become the water closet.

Thus, I planned the new master bathroom when I was planning Phase 2, even though the bathroom would not be constructed until Phase 3. Now I just need to get the details planned. The cabinetry will be constructed by a custom cabinetry company, so that is no issue. Much to my surprise, main problem I have found has been finding a bathtub. I really want one with both a whirlpool and air massage, i.e. one with both a water pump and air blower. Finding one with both is not that difficult for dimensions I have, but finding one with the pump and blower on the left side of the tub is. Evidently, everyone is supposed to configure their bathrooms to have them on the right side. [In case you are not familiar with these types of tubs, you have to have access to the pump and blower in case they need service.] I am dumbfounded quite frankly that everything is configured for things on the right. With the vast majority of tubs, I can’t simply rotate the tub 180° because the drain has to be in a location that the plumber can reach to hook it up to the piping. Rotating most tubs would cause the drain to be in a location that the plumber simply wouldn’t be able to reach. After much searching, I finally found a tub where the manufacturer custom makes all tubs and with several models, they can reconfigure it to put the pump on the left side. Now I need to know the access size that is required for their tubs because I am planning to have tall cabinet to the left of the tub platform. The bottom of the cabinet will essentially have a false side that will give access to the pump and blower. The cabinetry company said they can figure out how to do it; they just need the dimensions. Therefore today, I’m on the phone with the plumbing supply salesperson who is helping me find a tub. I’ve got it narrowed down to one brand, and I’m asking a bunch of questions. I’ve downloaded the specifications and other information from the manufacturer’s website, but I still can’t find the exact access size that is needed. The salesperson finally says he is just not sure, so he is going to conference call me with a guy from the manufacturer. It was perfect, and the manufacturer guy went through all the details I needed. He said once I am finally ready to order, it would be best to get a specifications drawing and mark it up to show exactly where my cabinet will be and how much access I am leaving, and they can move the pump and blower a bit to give the best access. Now I need to take their specs sheet and mark it up and send it to the cabinetry company so that they can do the same.

This is why I don’t use general contractors. I hire all the contractors: carpenters, plumbers, electricians, etc. I buy almost all the supplies, or at least the supplies that affect the design and aesthetic. I micromanage everything, and when I have used general contractors in the past, I generally drive them crazy. There is no point to me hiring a general contractor because I micromanage everything so much I am not getting my money’s worth from them since the point of having a general contractor is that they manage all the sub-contractors and details. Also, I do a lot of the work myself, so I don’t need a general contractor to manage me. I plan long term ahead to make sure everything will work. I try to plan for every single detail. I will if necessary demand that I speak to the actual person on the factory floor to get the detail I need to know that affects the next detail. I will repaint a wall three times until I get the color I want, but I’m not going to tear up tile, so I want the space planned out correctly from the beginning. I call the county’s building permit department and speak to the inspectors myself to make sure I know what code requires, and sometimes I demand that contractors do things that go beyond code when I don’t think code is enough. In most of my renovation work, I tear a room down to the studs and subfloor because in this house, I just don’t trust anything that was done beforehand. Sometimes it is just easier to start all over anyway. Yes, I should come with a warning sign.

Master Closet Shelving

As part of Home Renovation Phase II, I stole space from the living room to create a walk-in master closet. The master bedroom had a small walk-in closet that led to the very small master bathroom. In Home Renovation Phase III, planned for sometime next year, I intend to create a nice size master bathroom using both the old master bathroom and closet. Thus, during Phase II, I created the new master closet. It is not spacious, but it is workable and has plenty of storage room for two people. It includes tall hangings, double hangings, shoe shelves, clothes shelves, and drawers. It is 124 inches long and 72 inches wide. That leaves the standard 24 inches for hanging areas on both walls and a 24-inch aisle. I bought the components from Closets To Go, and the color is Sunset Cherry. I really like the way it came out, but I would like to have a conversation with whoever wrote the assembly directions. Why is it so impossible for companies to actually check their assembly directions for accuracy? Also, there were a few issues that I solved using the engineer’s standby of fixing it by taking a hammer and banging the crap out of it.

With the master closet completed, Phase II of my home renovation is finally done 13 months after it was started. Yes, it took a long time, but I did much of the work myself.

newly created master closet

newly created master closet

finished master closet

finished master closet

shoe shelves

shoe shelves

clothes shelves

clothes shelves

What Not to do with Metal Covers

Geeky Girl Engineer’s Home DIY Tips for Morons

All houses have numerous cover plates for wall openings such as electrical outlets, light switches, and vents. The cover plates can be fancy or plain and come in various materials. Vent covers are normally metal, but specialty ones come in different materials. For two floor vent openings in my family room, I bought unstained white oak covers that I then had stained and sealed to match the hardwood floors in that room.

Wooden vent cover stained and sealed to match the hardwood floor

Wooden vent cover stained and sealed to match the hardwood floor

Light switch and electrical outlet covers are normally plastic but can also be various materials and colors. In my kitchen, I used stainless steel light switch and outlet covers to match the stainless steel tiles in the backsplash and the stainless steel appliances.

Stainless steel light switch/outlet cover which matched stainless steel tiles

Stainless steel light switch/outlet cover which matched stainless steel tiles

Thus, you don’t have to use the standard type covers. You can buy fancier ones to coordinate with your decor. You can also buy covers that are specially made to be painted or wallpapered so that they really match your walls. However, these are special ones. You can’t, or rather you shouldn’t, paint any metal cover. If you paint metal, it needs to be primed properly, and if you want the paint job to look nice, it needs to be applied carefully, preferably it should be sprayed on for a really nice, smooth coat. Otherwise, you get this:

Improperly painted vent cover

Improperly painted vent cover

I’m not sure if the photo really shows how bad it looks. The paint is chipping all over. Brush marks can clearly be seen, and in some places, the paint pooled, making the coat very uneven. Most importantly, if you refuse to heed my advice on this, please, please, take the covers off before painting them. Don’t paint them while they are on the wall. If you paint them while on the while, this happens:

Outlet after cover that was painted while on wall was removed

Outlet after cover that was painted while on wall was removed

See the lovely lines where the cover was? That is due to a thinner coat of paint where the cover covered the wall. Here is a similar outcome with the vent cover.

Vent after cover that was painted while on wall was removed

Vent after cover that was painted while on wall was removed

Closeup of vent after cover that was painted while on wall was removed

Closeup of vent after cover that was painted while on wall was removed

The very worst part was that the paint had flowed underneath the cover and essentially glued the cover to the wall. I had to use a flat-head screwdriver to pry the covers off the wall. In some places, it didn’t come off cleanly.

So please, don’t do this. Your house’s future owners thank you.

Hacking a Chandelier

As part of my home renovations, I have been installing new light fixtures, including several from ELK Lighting’s Elysburg line. I wanted to use a three light chandelier in the downstairs foyer by the front door and at the second floor landing at the top of the stairs. The only problem is that they hang 22 inches from the ceiling (at their shortest), and since my house has 8 foot high ceiling, this means the chandelier is hanging a little low for an area where people are going to walk. As with all chandeliers, it came with chain to allow it to hang lower, but there is a limit how short it can be. Thus, I decided to hack the chandelier to make it even shorter. Here is the chandelier at its shortest as designed.

top of the chandelier before

top of the chandelier before

Chandelier before

Chandelier before

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The way the chandelier connects to the outlet box is pretty standard.

Outlet box crossbar holds screw pipe

Outlet box crossbar holds screw pipe

Screw collar loop attaches to clip ring to canopy nut

Screw collar loop attaches to clip ring to canopy nut

The simplest way to shorten the fixture seemed to be to eliminate the screw collar loop, clip ring, and canopy nut by somehow connecting the light fixture screw directly to electrical box’s screw pipe. The problem of course is they are two different diameters and threading size. I considered using a bolt that was the same size as the fixture screw, in place of the screw pipe, then just connecting them using a coupling nut. However the light fixture screw is a M10 x 1.0, and after a half hour of internet searching, I couldn’t find a single vender for that size coupling nut. Another method that I thought of later, was to bring the light fixture screw directly to the box crossbar using a nut, then drill holes through the canopy and use screws through those holes to hold the whole fixture up. The problem with that is that I was a little weary of drilling holes in the canopy in case I messed up, and also, I would need decretive screw caps to cover the screws, and I didn’t know how to find those.

What I did, was searched to aisles of Home Depot in search of something I could use to connect the pieces somehow, and I finally came up with the following solution. These are the materials I used. I used the chain that came with the chandelier, a nut to fit the light fixture screw, and a crossbar adjustment kit I found in the electrical aisle. I bought the crossbar adjustment kit solely for the piece that in the photo is outside the package it came in. I have no idea what the piece is, but it looks like to two very strong washers held apart in a parallel manner by a bar.

Materials for chandelier hack

Materials for chandelier hack

Here’s what I did. I put the parallel washer thingy piece on chandelier screw, then used the nut to hold it on. I then cut one of the chain links in half and used it to connect the top part of the parallel washer thingy to the chandelier’s screw cap. [You will note that as an engineer, I sometimes use highly technical terms like “thingy”.] I had to use a pipe wrench to bend the cut chain link into a closed loop. It’s rather strong.

My hacked way of connecting the light fixture to the screw cap.

My hacked way of connecting the chandelier to the screw cap.

The finished chandelier now looks like this. I was able to shorten the entire chandelier by about two inches. Not that much, but enough that hopefully less people will hit their head.

Chandelier after

Chandelier after

Top of the chandelier after

Top of the chandelier after

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So that’s how I hacked the chandelier. If anyone out there has any suggestions for a better way I could have done it, that does not involve welding, I would love to hear it. Please leave a comment with suggestions.

Female Restroom Design Basics for Men

I am officially fed up with going into restrooms that have been obviously designed by men. Evidently the women of the world are going to need to take more drastic actions because this situation does not seem to be resolving itself as more women enter engineering, architecture, and construction. Building code covers a whole range of issues from structural to safety to just plain standardization. Clearly, proper female restroom design needs to be put into building code. Perhaps we also need a rule that just as all engineering designs must be certified by a Professional Engineer, all female restrooms deigns must be certified by a female, perhaps not a female engineer, but probably any female who has ever used a public restroom will do.

Men, yes I am aiming this post at men because honestly I find it very hard to believe that a woman would be capable of making such stupid design decisions for female restrooms. This is not to say a female is smarter than a male (that’s an argument for another day), but because any female who has used a public restrooms knows exactly that I am talking about and would not design it so stupidly. So men, I don’t know why you are so confused about what about what we do and don’t need in a restroom. I assume and hope that none of you have been in a restroom when the ladies are using it, but still I would think the things that we need and want would be pretty common sense. Perhaps I should not assume certain men to have common sense when it comes to the ladies though. This election season has taught me that there are men out there who think women have magical reproductive systems. Thus ladies, lady parts, and lady part business is clearly an utter mystery to some segment of the male population. Therefore, let me give you an education about what the ladies want and don’t want in a restroom. I promise there will be no discussion the lady parts of anything else that might make you squeamish.

  1. Probably the biggest complaint that I and many other women have is the length of the stalls. Here is how it is fellas, ladies like to do their business in stalls. We don’t use the urinals. Not only do we like to use stalls, but we like to have doors on said stalls to give us some privacy. No problem, you say, we always give you stalls with doors. Well, yes, you do, but here’s the thing, evidently you have never used a toilet in a stall with a door because if you had, then you would understand that the stall needs to be long enough that we can close the dang door without standing on the toilet or straddling the toilet. Seriously, the stall should be long enough that we can stand in front of the toilet and close the door at the same time. If you can’t imagine what I am talking about, I invite you to go to nearest toilet and stand in front of it, facing away from it (like you might sit down or something on it). Now look at the distance your body takes up in front of the toilet. We need at least that much space between the toilet and the swing area of the door. Since the swing area of the door is put onto building plans, you already know that distance, so just add a proper distance between the toilet and swing area so that you can stand there. Simple right? Makes sense?
  2. We need a coat hook or something like it on the back or the door or the side of the stall. You might be aware that many women carry purses. Sometimes we also carry jackets or backpacks or other items. We like to be able to hang them when we are in the stall, so we don’t have to put our stuff on the floor. See this stuff is really not complicated.
  3. We need a small trash can inside each and every stall. Some restrooms have those neat trash can and toilet roll hangers that fit in the wall between two stalls. Those are just fine, just as long every stall has a trash can that can be reached from the privacy of that stall. I realize you may be confused as to why on earth we would need a trash can in each stall. Let me just say that at certain times of the month, we need to carry certain, shall we say feminine hygiene products, into the stall, and we like to dispose of, shall we say used feminine hygiene products, in the privacy of the stall. If you want further information please go ask your wife, mother, middle school health teacher, or the internet.
  4. While I am sure it is obvious that the stall needs to have toilet paper in it, what does not always seem to be obvious is where to put it. To put it simply, 99.999% of women are not in fact contortionists, and I imagine even the 0.001% of women who are, don’t like to do contortions in order to reach the toilet paper. It should not hitting our leg. It should not be behind the toilet. It should be in an easy to reach location.
  5. One more thing about the stalls. I can only presume that someone somewhere at some point created some calculation as to how many stalls would be necessary based on the planned traffic in the bathroom based on the design occupancy of the building. Whoever they were that came up with this calculation, they were wrong. I don’t care how smart they were and what kind of glorious calculus and statistics they used. They were wrong. If you don’t believe me, I invite you to go stand outside any women’s restroom at any sports or performing arts venue, airport, dance club, or any other place where you can find large groups of women. There will be a line. However outside the men’s room, there will be no line, or there will be a line 1/10 the size of the women’s room line. So whatever your calculation says, throw in a large safety factor, maybe upwards of 1.5. We will call it the female safety factor. It is a safety factor both from the traditional engineering standpoint of being conservative in design but also from the standpoint of you may be in danger if us females find out who is responsible for these horrible restroom designs that never seem to improve.
  6. Enough talk about the stalls, now let’s discuss the sinks. In general, the time spent in the stall is the time limiting step in a women’s use of the restroom, so there does not need to be as many sinks as the stalls. However there should be an adequate number of sinks, and they should be placed such that traffic can easily flow to, away, and around them.
  7. Staying with the sinks, optimally there should be one soap dispenser per sink, however, if needed, this number can be reduced to as low as one dispenser per two sinks, if and only if, the dispenser if placed between the two sinks that share it. I’ve been to too many restrooms where there were three sinks and two soap dispensers at either end. Let’s think about this. Where the heck is the person using the middle sink supposed to get her soap. While I suppose some people may wash their hands differently, I and everyone I know, wets their hands, then puts soap on their hands, lathers, then washes with water. If the soap is not near the sink, are we supposed to get the hands wet, walk around someone else, get soap, and return to our sink, all while dripping water from our wet hands? Common sense. That is is that is really needed here. Also, if the reason for this stupidity in restroom design is due to restroom designers not being the type that wash their hands after the restroom, then gross, and wash your dang hands.
  8. Now that we have cleaned our hands, we need to dry them. Shocker. Similar to the sink discussion, there should be enough paper towel dispensers or hot air dryers, to keep traffic moving in the restroom. I don’t know the optimal number, but if there are ten sinks, then more than two towel dispensers would be a good idea.
  9. Next, we are back to trash cans. Yes, I know, I already stated that we need trash cans in each stall, but we also need them outside the stalls. After we use paper towels to dry are hands, we need to throw the used towels away. This is where the trash can comes in. Sometimes, we have something else we might like to throw away, who knows, so trash cans are good. Also, to get into more detail, big trash cans are good, and trash cans that we don’t have to touch to open are really necessary for hygiene reasons.
  10. The next item that is necessary is a baby changing area. However, I am not sexist; the men’s restroom should have this too. Daddies change diapers too nowadays. A space specially dedicated for changing babies is required.
  11. Now let’s discuss furniture. We don’t need it. I don’t know what you fellas think we do in restrooms, but in general, we do our business, wash our hands, and get out. Sometimes, a lady might want to freshen her makeup or do other personal tasks. Sometimes, if we are with a friend, we might chat. In general though, we don’t use the restroom as a living room. We don’t need couches. We don’t get the vapors and need to use the restroom to have a lie down. However we keep finding restrooms with couches in them. My theory is that the couches are there because the restroom is being used as a storage location for the couch. Look if the restroom is huge, then fine put a couch there, and if some women has a use for it, she can use it. However if the restroom is huge, go poll all the women you know, most of us would vote for more stalls, not a couch. [See number 5]
  12. Are you ready for advanced restroom design? I know you can handle it. For hygiene reasons, after you wash your hands, you should touch as little as possible. That is why some of the newer restrooms don’t have doors at the entrance, they just have a slightly torturous route from the opening to the restroom to provide privacy. These are great. If this is not possible, consider placing a trash can right by the door, that way we can open the door with a paper towel, then throw it away afterwards. Simple.

Edited to add the following three based on comments from others:

  1. No pedestal sinks. They are pretty and all, but just as we have stuff to bring into the stalls, we will still have that same stuff when we leave the stalls. Where do we put said stuff if there are no counters?
  2. Consider that humans are different heights. While toilets and sinks normally are at generally standard heights that does not always accommodate everyone, there is flexibility in the height of paper towel dispensers, hand dryers, mirrors, and a few other items. Try putting them at different heights, so short people can use the lower ones, and taller people can use the higher ones.
  3. I have been informed from a couple of males, that I may have assumed too much when I said the bad female restroom design reflects ignorance or unthinking on the part of men. I stand by my statement that the problem is probably men because statistically speaking most engineers, architects, and contractors are men. However, I have been informed by men that male’s restrooms have just as bad design as the female’s restroom. I have also been informed that there are bad design of urinals. I know nothing about urinals, so I will not comment on how to improve them, other than to say that improved fluid dynamics design may be needed.

This has been your basic introduction to proper female restroom design. Please consider it carefully because if not, we are going start coming after those responsible for bad female restroom design. You have been warned. Women, was there anything I forgot? Please feel free to add to this in the comments. For further amusing discussion on what both women and men want in a restroom, please see this Storify Twitter discussion.

A Curtain Rod from Door Knobs and a Wooden Dowel

Here are my starting materials: two antique milk glass door knobs, a wooden dowel, two wall hooks, and silver paint. Not pictured are store bought curtain clip rings, Liquid Nails, and the curtain, which is actually a tablecloth.

I painted the dowel. Then I put the curtain rings on the dowel. I used Liquid Nails to glue the dowel into the two antique milkglass doorknobs, which conveniently I bought without the rods that attach them to the door mechanism. The only problem with the way I created this curtain rod is that the curtain rings are now permanently on the rod, unless I want to break the dowel to remove them.

After everything had dried and cured, I attached the rod to the wall using the wall hooks which simply screw into the drywall and studs. [Wooden dowels come in multiple diameters, so I picked the diameter that best fit into the door knobs. Similarly, I bought wall hooks that best fit snugly around the dowel.]

For the curtain, I used a hand painted piece of fabric that my sister gave me, which I think is from Bali. I am pretty sure it is supposed to be a tablecloth, but it fit my window perfectly, and it was too pretty to never have on display. Below is the finished window treatment that is pretty and VERY unique.